Should I buy it? Oiling issues...

[Rambling Along]

I am looking for some advice. I have been SCCA racing for a few years and have owned a number of AMC street cars over the years. So, when a hornet SCCA car came up locally it peaked my interest. However, it is suffering from oiling issues (high RPM drains the pan) and I wanted to get peoples opinion on what can be done to fix it. The car is:

*360ci / T10 hornet - full cage, suspension reworked...pulls >1g in a turn
*Milidon road race pan and external pick up line
*3Qt acusump
*internal oil line to feed rear bearing
*standard oil pump mods (opening up, etc)
*slightly enlarged (cleaned up) oil return holes from lifter galley

The class the car runs in precludes the use of dry sumps. So, my question is what else can be done to the engine so it will hold oil pressure at high-g / high rpm for an extended time?

I am still trying to decide about getting the car and am going to start talking price with the person, but need to know if the problem is fixable or if I should just back out.

Thanks everyone for the help,

Sean

[tufcj]

Either the oil baffles in the pan are stuck open or the Acusump isn't plumbed right. With those parts it should have plenty of oil capacity for turns.

Bob
tufcj

[Rambling Along]

Hi Bob,
Thanks for the feedback, I will ask him about it. On a related topic, is there a preferred oil pan? Also, he is thinking that it is pumping all the oil up into the intake valley when he runs at high RPM for a few laps.

Thanks,

Sean

[tufcj]

Only 3 names come to mind. Aviaid, Canton, and Milodon. Milodon is the least expensive. I run Canton pans on both of my cars with internal pickups. Both are just "hot street" cars, used mostly for cruising and occasional 1/4 mile drags. I do coat the heads and lifter valley as well as the inside of the valve covers with glyptal. It makes the surfaces slick and shed oil to improve return to the pan. I've never had a problem with starvation, even with stock pans, but I don't road race either.

What weight oil is it running? A 20-50 may slosh less than a 10-30 or 10-40.

Bob
tufcj

[JERSEYJOE]

I RUN AN EARLY CANTON PAN WITH BAFFLES. ALSO RUN THE DRAIN BACK LINESFROM THE VALVE COVERS TO THE PAN. MY CAR WAS SCCA B PRODUCTION RACED FROM 70-74 WITHOUT ANY OILING ISSUES. IT DID NOT HAVE A VALLEY LINE OR A CAM ANTI WALK PLATE. I DID INSTALL THEN DURING THE REBUILD. FRANKLY I THINK THE MAJOR ISSUE IS KEEPING THE OIL IN THE PAN, OR MORE CORRECTLY GETTING IT BACK TO THE PAN FASTER THAN THE INTERNAL PASSAGES ALLOW. IF YOU WANT TO SEE PICTURES YOU CAN FIND THEM IN THIS BUILD:

http://theamcforum.com/forum/1970-am...opic42680.html

[Hurst390]

I am looking for some advice. I have been SCCA racing for a few years and have owned a number of AMC street cars over the years. So, when a hornet SCCA car came up locally it peaked my interest. However, it is suffering from oiling issues (high RPM drains the pan) and I wanted to get peoples opinion on what can be done to fix it. The car is:

*360ci / T10 hornet - full cage, suspension reworked...pulls >1g in a turn
*Milidon road race pan and external pick up line
*3Qt acusump
*internal oil line to feed rear bearing
*standard oil pump mods (opening up, etc)
*slightly enlarged (cleaned up) oil return holes from lifter galley

The class the car runs in precludes the use of dry sumps. So, my question is what else can be done to the engine so it will hold oil pressure at high-g / high rpm for an extended time?

I am still trying to decide about getting the car and am going to start talking price with the person, but need to know if the problem is fixable or if I should just back out.

Thanks everyone for the help,

Sean

Here is my homemade circle track set-up. Heads drilled and tapped for return,swinging side to side pick-up. No accumulator. The accumulator is a double edged sword. They are great for pre-oiling and they will pump oil in the engine in the event of a loss of pressure. BUT it only is insurance if you shut it down quick. If you los oil pressure and the acc. dumps oil when pressure resumes it has to refill the canister. so then your splitting oil between the engine and canister. I ran one 5 years and removed it. It wasn't worth the hassle for me.

[Hurst390]

If you run return lines run them into the left side of the pan when possible..I do have the right front line ran in the the right front side of the pan. But the rear head lines run to the left where the most oil is coming out. You can see in this pic where my pan return fitting are even though I didn't have the lines connected yet. The right front pan fitting is also the oil level check hole. I also run restricted pushrods from smith bros. I drilled the heads to keep the minimum amount of oil in the heads. If you return from the valve cover you have to have an enormous amount of oil fill the head before it can get out the line..