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powerlock vs traclock - Page 2
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Thread: powerlock vs traclock

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Iron Range
    Posts
    107
    MMM took apart a dana 44 i had in a jeep i was parting out and it had a Powr-Lok so I put that in my Flatfender project. Now I need something for the front though...

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    West Shafer Hieghts,MN
    Posts
    40
    :twisted: Powerlock all the way!
    SPREAD IT ON!

  3. #13
    Thank you from BT Master (OIIIO)
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Missoula MT, Now in Santa Rosa Ca
    Posts
    759
    This might be an old subject but im going to throw my .02 in on Ploks.

    They Rock

    You can stack the clutch packs with additional curved clutches to increase preload.

    Inner clutches are without ears, outers are with. there are 2 inners and three outers per side. I-O-I-O-I

    Typical rebuild kits come with 2 inner curves, a HD kit comes with four inner curves. Old kits were better equipt from Dana, the older kits came with outer and inner curved clutches. If you find a PLok with a curved steel outer clutch in the pak that isn't cut/scared, only has mild scuffs, mainly friction points I wouldnt hesitate to throw it in with new cltuches to get the additional preload.

    I have heard of guys going with 11 clutches instead of the 10 to increase preload to a better full locked performance. I've never done it. I currently run 6 curves & 4 flat outers in my D44 front and 6 curves & 4 flat outers in my D60 rear. After 5 years of Fordyce and Rubicon, plus snow wheeling in Montana where i lived, and pavement mischief, they are getting a little loose, i occasionally have to tap the brake in tight spots and preload the Plok so it is locked then i have 0 problems.

    I changed from a Detroit Rear to the Plok because the ratcheting of the Detroit in tight spots kept shifting the rear tires unpredictably, i hated the way i would be mid turn in a tight spot and the rear would ratchet and move my tire line into a worse spot. The Plok seems to absorb the turns when not under power and then has good lock up characteristics for climbing once engaded.


    The new D60 kits come with friction material modified plates instead of the old steal ones. A couple of guys i know are taking new flat outer clutches and pressing a curve for preload into disk's center section, good results.



    D80's for dodge from 1994-97/98 had a rare optional Power Lok most are a bolttogether knock off Plok w/o the cross shaft ramping action, they are a look alike but are really a Trac Lok.

    A D70HD case works in a D80, modify the ring gear bolt holes to the right size. D60 and D70, D70HD all use the same clutches, also D70 35 spline side gears and buckets fit into the D60 Plok so changing spline count is easy and Cheap $100-150.

    I also run Ploks front and rear on my Ford with the cummins conversion. D60 Front, D80 rear. since it was for highway driving on ice and towing mainly i opted for 2 curves in the D60 Plok and 7 in the D80. It was a good compromise i get excellent lock up F&R with the Rear staying tight even when under load with a trailer. Oh yeah i ditched my D80 detroit after it shattered its guts while pulling a 30k lbs trailer and turning.

    Dusty
    IF washington wont quit spending money like mad men then i suggest we claim 9 deductions in 2010 and withold or taxes till the final dead line of 4/15/2011.

    CJ7 AMC401 http://www.fordification.com/images/forum/bug.gif

    "May God have mercy on my enemies, because I WON'T!!" -General George Patton
    Member #377

  4. #14
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10,042
    yeah the powerlock really rocked over the track lock...unreal it was
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