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Ford 9" or Dana 60 - Page 3
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Thread: Ford 9" or Dana 60

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsr4ever
    SOA or poor mans lift is a lift you dont want on the street,
    Why would you say that

    SOA is a great thing to do for all around lift, ride and flex. I definately would not call it a poor mans lift...they can be more expensive than most lift kits when done right.
    -Brent-

    Our Jeeps

  2. #22
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
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    The ride on the street is dangerous for SOA on a cj, with stock axles. I did jump the gun dangit TAZ you got me man!!!! I run soa and i think it is the better of the two for flex and even for jumping your jeep, but would i tell someone to go soa?....probly not...because if it isnt done right you can kill yourself ..not that i am a conspirator but man we just got to make sure everything on your/my rigs are rigid/well built or accidents can occur, thats how i lost a good friend of mine so maybe i am a little gun shy about telling some one to go SOA
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  3. #23

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    From those whom I have talked to I HAVE to go SOA with these axles if I am going to narrow them. (Dana 60 front Dana 70 rear). It is because of where the pumpkin is located on the dana 60 (so close to the knuckle). I guess another option is this. I think this is what you are refering to.


    http://poisonspidercustoms.com/Axles/axlekits.htm


    But I don't think I could get my car inspected with axles that wide on them. Maybe maybe not. It look cool for a trail only rig but I think it is kinda strange looking when I see one on the road with it.


    Do you run a ladder bar to deal with axle wrap on your SOA? Also who make a good Disk break conversion for the dana 70 rear?


    -RJ
    1978 Jeep CJ-7 on Won-Tons :D Nv4500/4:1 SOA on ALCANS and mtr's

  4. #24
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
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    yeah you would have to go spring over, but the good news is that with your bigger backing plate you will gain some stability, you dont need ladder bars unless you have major wheel hop or axel wrap, which you may get from the increased weight and gear reduction, its a hit and miss with the spring type though, remember when going to larger brakes or disk rear the MC must be changed to one with more volume, it is not as easy as just swapping for disks
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  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsr4ever
    yeah you would have to go spring over, but the good news is that with your bigger backing plate you will gain some stability, you dont need ladder bars unless you have major wheel hop or axel wrap, which you may get from the increased weight and gear reduction, its a hit and miss with the spring type though, remember when going to larger brakes or disk rear the MC must be changed to one with more volume, it is not as easy as just swapping for disks

    exactly my thoughts, any good ideas for a Master Cylinder swap canidate? Wondering what my options are. Also many have said I should upgrade th yoke on the back of the D20? Think so?
    1978 Jeep CJ-7 on Won-Tons :D Nv4500/4:1 SOA on ALCANS and mtr's

  6. #26
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
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    early 70's corvette MC will fit..........MC, i would upgrade the yoke and run a cv shaft
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  7. #27

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    The Vette MC is good when you run 4 wheel disks as well. The primary & secoandarys are equal size so you can probably get by without the prop valve.

    I had the vette MC and it worked ok, but I switched to a 70's Chev 1 ton mc. It has the same design (primary & secondary of equal size) But it moves allot more volume thus giving more stopping power.

    I'll try and look up the part number for it.


    But either one of those will work fine. I believe the Vette is the 1968 1 1/8 bore 4 wheel disk MC. Make sure its the 1 1/8 bore.

  8. #28
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
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    good info CJ!!
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  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by CJ Shark
    The Vette MC is good when you run 4 wheel disks as well. The primary & secoandarys are equal size so you can probably get by without the prop valve.

    I had the vette MC and it worked ok, but I switched to a 70's Chev 1 ton mc. It has the same design (primary & secondary of equal size) But it moves allot more volume thus giving more stopping power.

    I'll try and look up the part number for it.


    But either one of those will work fine. I believe the Vette is the 1968 1 1/8 bore 4 wheel disk MC. Make sure its the 1 1/8 bore.
    Sounds good. Let me know part numbers if you can. How is the mounting compared to the CJ. I just dropped a new Perpotioning valve in with new lines so just rather keep it there.

    Thanks CJ

    -RJ
    1978 Jeep CJ-7 on Won-Tons :D Nv4500/4:1 SOA on ALCANS and mtr's

  10. #30

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    I'll try and find the part number for the chev tonight, at work right now.


    The 2 are almost exactly the same bolt patern as the stock MC, so they will bolt right in.

    The only problem you will encounter, but with your prop valve this won't be a problem is;

    The Vette MC (and I think the Chev is the same) the brake lines are reversed. The (i think 9/16) line on the jeep mc for the rear brakes will now bolt onto the front (primary) side of the new mc.

    With the MC bult for 4 wheel disks it shouldn't matter, but keeping your prop vlave is a good idea especially when the lines are being reversed.


    Oh and forgot the best part. Even though you would think otherwise, especially when its a '68 vette part.............the MC is bloody cheap. You can probably get a new one (not rebuilt) for less than 60.00 of your yankee money. :D

    (cost me about 100.00 canadian )

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