Warning: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in ..../includes/class_bbcode.php on line 2968
1 Ton axle questions - Page 2
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 28

Thread: 1 Ton axle questions

  1. #11
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10,042
    I do have a 70 with 4:56's but i am building a hybrid front 70 and looking fro a set of 4:56's. I dont know, try emailing or checking out dana's cross reference tables
    [COLOR=#000000]
    Featuring www.StarLabCNC.com[/URL] for CNC plasma machines
    1-651-433-3689 TOLL FREE 1-855-433-3689

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Decatur Texas
    Posts
    140
    Just as a note, the 63" WMS-WMS dually axle mentioned above are found on the cab and chassis trucks.

    Also, you can narrow the front D60 some by swapping out the dually hub extensions.... unless you are planning to run hummer beadlocks, in which case you would want to keep them to fit the rims.
    '65 J200 401

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    216
    Elliot by going with SRW hubs how much does that reduce the WMS? I am at 67.5 WMS not including the DRW hubs and they are about 4" each.
    1978 Jeep CJ-7 on Won-Tons :D Nv4500/4:1 SOA on ALCANS and mtr's

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Decatur Texas
    Posts
    140
    Ok, I'll need this verified by someone else as I am not positive:
    1) If the D70 is similar to the Corp 14 then the overall axle length is the same between a 63" and 67" WMS, the variance could be made by swapping out the hub and brake drum assembly.

    2) On the D60 front, I believe the DRW hub extensions can simply be removed from the hub to narrow the front. This may require different bolts for the lugs.

    If the above is correct that would pull your WMS in ~8" up front and 4" in the rear.
    From there you can pull your actual treadwidth in further by running the hummer rims with huge back spacing. From what I have only read, this usually requires cutting off the tie rod arm from the end forging, and using a high steer arm (designed for hummer rim clearance, such as Poison Spyder). Depending on your tire width there may be some body/spring clearance issues... but that is more likely on wider vehicles like the FSJ and your frame is much narrower.
    If you are going to use the Hummer rims there are some things to keep in mind and to check out with others who have done it:
    - rim clearance with the brake caliper up front
    - total amount of backspacing you will actually be able to use

    You can get the Hummer style rims with custom backspacing from:
    http://www.usa6x6.com/

    Spend some time researching this real well before you actually invest in the rims, do some searches on Hummer rims/CJ to scope it out.
    Hopefully somebody can verify what I think is accurate.
    '65 J200 401

  5. #15
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10,042
    The brake backing plate for C&C axles is staged closer to the pumkin so it would work
    [COLOR=#000000]
    Featuring www.StarLabCNC.com[/URL] for CNC plasma machines
    1-651-433-3689 TOLL FREE 1-855-433-3689

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Decatur Texas
    Posts
    140
    So you just swap the hub on the rear for a narrower track?
    Figuring that on a CJ he probably will not want to retain the drums and swap drums also, he'll probably go with disc brakes on the back.
    '65 J200 401

  7. #17
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10,042
    hubs between the C&C and fullsize arent swappable.........but now you got me thinking im wrong
    [COLOR=#000000]
    Featuring www.StarLabCNC.com[/URL] for CNC plasma machines
    1-651-433-3689 TOLL FREE 1-855-433-3689

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    216
    I am planning on going with Disks in the back, either way the drums on that D70 are huge and gotta go. I still gotta yank them off. While you are at it MC if you plan on setting up disk brakes on your D70 make two sets of the caliper brackets, I am going to run those 76-78 Cadilac Edelarado rear calipers on mine so I can reatain the cable E-brake system. I will work on the rears later today and report back what I find. Think you can make them so they bolt onto the 4 bolt flange on the end of the axle tube?

    -RJ
    1978 Jeep CJ-7 on Won-Tons :D Nv4500/4:1 SOA on ALCANS and mtr's

  9. #19
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10,042
    yeah ive done it in the past, but unsure about the proper width of the caliper mounting holes on the caddy caliper
    [COLOR=#000000]
    Featuring www.StarLabCNC.com[/URL] for CNC plasma machines
    1-651-433-3689 TOLL FREE 1-855-433-3689

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    216
    Either leave the holes undrilled or try the caddy calipers on your rig you can get reman ones from rock auto for about 50 bucks a side. No idea if you can even get new ones still. Or when I get them, I can ship them to you and you can trial fit them??? Sound kool?

    -RJ
    1978 Jeep CJ-7 on Won-Tons :D Nv4500/4:1 SOA on ALCANS and mtr's

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Bulltear Ad