401 Rebuild Help

[Lifted79CJ7]

OK, so what do you call the freez plug looking thing in the back of the block that keeps the cam from coming through the back of the engine? How can you tell where to set it exactly? Will it depend on the cam that I use, or is it a standard depth?
Jack

[fuzz401]

were it goes in the back of the block there is a chamfer in that hole the edge of the plug should be at the edge of the chamfer

[Lifted79CJ7]

I would assume that I should replace this when I do my rebuild....does this part come in a Fel-Pro gasket kit, or is this gonna be an extra part that I need to order - and if so, what is the correct name of the part?

Jack (probably annoying you guys to death with questions by now!)

[jeepsr4ever]

when you get a engine kit it usually comes with freeze plugs, if its a master it always does. When you get your engine block work done (boiled, bored...ect) a good builser will install the freeze plugs and cam plug so you wont have to mess with them. I like the questions because it helps other members and lurkers so dont hesitate to ask, this site isnt just for garage engineers

[fuzz401]

no just peons like me ask any ques you have a dumb ques is better then none asked

[jeepsr4ever]

yeah and if you can ask a dumber question than any of mine you win the boobie prize

[fuzz401]

http://volcano.photobucket.com/album...1/3416c5a3.jpg

rear cam bearing plug

401 8.5:1 & 390 pistons 10 :1

http://volcano.photobucket.com/album...1/678f0450.jpg
http://volcano.photobucket.com/album...1/0c8f3fcb.jpg

[Lifted79CJ7]

OK guys, so I have decided that I want to break the 400hp mark when I do my rebuild. Any suggestions? Think with my edlebrock performer cam and 9.5:1 or so pistons I might be able to pull it off? I am thinking floating pistons, oiling mods, and maybe some head work. The question is, what type of head work should I think about? 3 angle valve job? Polishing job? Think porting would be necessary?
Thanks guys!!
Jack

[jeepsr4ever]

I personally dont think porting is as effective as polishing for your application, you can hit that mark, i suggest 3angle valve job on the heads, this will allow a positive seat for some great revving! :) You can get there, i have some new items coming out to help you achieve 400+ and still keep that engine reliable

[Lifted79CJ7]

As for the porting, from what I understand from you guys, really wouldn't affect me unless I am going to be doing high revving (above 5K) and higher horsepower type stuff (over 500hp), am I correct on this assumption? As for the polishing, I was definitely thinking about having that done. 3 angle valve job? I can do that. So what all is involved with a 3 angle job, and will I need to order special valves, or have the vavles machined at the same time as the head, or do the valves just stay as they come out of the box?
As for the new items that you have floating around in that head of yours, can you give us any sneak peaks????? I promise I won't tell!!
OK, and last but not least, I know I have asked this a couple times, but I am still a little hazy on it...what all do I need to have done to my new timing chain cover and new oil pump gears and spring? I remember you talking about new gears for higher pressure, but I haven't seen much more on if you are selling these or not. Will the stock style ones hold up to my goal of an engine?
I do plan on doing the oil mods to the crank and adding in the oiling kit that I got from Perfromance AM Style, any other oiling mods I should think about?
And FINALLY, I am worried about distributor gear wear. How do you set these correctly for a long life. I read that you guys are against doing oiling mods to improve oil flow here, but it still seems to make sense to me. I saw a nice write up using a welder tip to shoot oil right on the contact area, but now I am not so sure after hearing everyones side on this board. Any suggestions?
Thanks for helping out so much with such a novice engine builder!
Jack