How about a crank trigger set up for amc? A little out of the realm of you jeepers, but I don't think it would be hard to make a mount the MSD flying magnet trigger, maybe use the fuel pump bolts? You may be able to redrill a SBC wheel, too.
How about a crank trigger set up for amc? A little out of the realm of you jeepers, but I don't think it would be hard to make a mount the MSD flying magnet trigger, maybe use the fuel pump bolts? You may be able to redrill a SBC wheel, too.
390,4speed
Not exactly out of the realm of jeepers but a good idea, I have done port injection on AMC R4B's and we are going to offer these with manifolds soon..............and less than edelbrock
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I would definitely buy an EFI system for my 360 project. Let me know when you get this ready.Originally Posted by jeepsr4ever
'74 CJ5
304V8
T18 swap
twin-sticked/Geared D20
front disc
York OBA
Ditto - just change 360 for 401Originally Posted by diddycj5
The real Bad A## stuff is on its way soon, I need to buy another TIG welder for the Port manifols though..maybe a month away or so
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I will start saving the bones for a manifold. It might be worth buying at least the fuel rails through you that match the manifold. Any ideas about a bulltear throttle body? I was looking at either the holly or Force fuel injection http://www.force-efi.com. But they are way too expensive. Force whats ~$3k to modify a manifold and supply the fuel rails and throttle body. The throttle bodies are $600 alone!
'74 CJ5
304V8
T18 swap
twin-sticked/Geared D20
front disc
York OBA
you know i never thought about making throttle bodies
Yeah fuel rails are easy to make, The harder part is putting a nice hole in the intake and tig welding it without any cracks. BUT ive done it and i want to offer the service soon as well as do it yourself kits.
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The throttle body would need trottle position and air temp sensors. It is possble to buy off the shelf components but not sure what ones are available.Originally Posted by jeepsr4ever
My scout buddy has a $4K Miller TIG so I could do it myself with a kit. How precise do the intake holes have to be located? Can this be done with a drill press or is a mill needed to get exact hole location? I have never TIGd cast aluminum myself, but I have heard that if you preheat it to about 400deg before welding and then post heat and slowly cool that it will be less likely to crack.
www.force-efi.com/parts.htm has a kit of fuel rails & injector bosses but they charge ~$100-150 for it. The injector bosses are probably a $1 part to make with a lathe.
'74 CJ5
304V8
T18 swap
twin-sticked/Geared D20
front disc
York OBA
Preheating the cast is not neccesary if it is over 70 degrees when you start welding, but after each spud is welded in oyu need to let it cool for 5-8mn
If you do it yourself you dont need precise hole because you can easily fill gaps and voids created by drilling or air tool, which maybe be a dremel in your case. But you dont need precise holes. I use a fuel rail Jig that simulates the actual rail, but you amy be alright if you use your usable rail
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Man, I can't wait to see this stuff! So thinking about giving Edelbrock a run for their money, eh?? You should give us a few sneak peeks...
Jack