crank trigger bracket

[jeepsr4ever]

Picture this Jack a sheet metal intake with rails on both sides and runners that go strait up from the port leaving the whole inside of the intake valley open for whatever, very elegant very potent, and i am making a 401 air cleaner one that i shaped like the original 401 emblem..........hope to work with K&N on that one

[Lifted79CJ7]

OK, you have me more excited than Wiley Cyote about to catch the road runner........

[Holeshot]

I don't see where anybody has posted any info as to what will be used for the brain box. Any ideas, there? (is it EFI or mechanical?)

As far as the butterfly(ies) go, it seems like that would depend on if your building an all-out screamer, or a throttle-responsive gas miser. The miser should have 4 butterflies with the secondaries opening only after the primaries are nearing WOT. Or how about an inline, progressive, one-barrel, two barrel, three barrel four?? That would be great for the rock climbers and misers. Not too hard to engineer, either.

For the race car, a single huge (4-inch, or so) hole would be best. Look at Ron's "Flying Toilet", from Ron's Racing Products.


Here's a blurb I grabbed at http://www.ronsfuel.com/page10.html

Let me first WARN you that the negative health effects of alky (for fuel) are cumulative, and can cause insanity, blindness, and death!!! Be CAREFULL. I do believe that it will penetrate latex gloves - use thick rubber gloves when handling, and avoid breathing exhaust fumes.
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We are often asked, "Why should I switch to alcohol from gas and from a
Carburetor to fuel injection?" Here's why.

1. To alcohol from gas:
a. Alcohol burns more slowly so it doesn't build as much engine heat each run.
1. Thus it is easier to cool the engine between rounds, and;
2. Higher compression ratios allowed {up to 16:1 ok, 13.8:1 is our ideal} though not required; it works great on 10:1 motors too!
b. Alcohol is less flammable, it's safer and easier to handle.
1. Alcohol is colorless when it burns so take care.
c. It's cheaper; although you will use more, it costs less per gallon.
d. Engine lasts longer
e. The switching process requires:
1. Good fuel line fittings {preferably anodized aluminum}.
2. A plastic fuel cell or hard-anodized aluminum fuel tank.
3. Top lube for fuel helps prevent corrosion and lubes the valve stems.
4. One full day at home working on the change once all parts are in place.
a. install parts
b. Remove intake manifold, drill 8 holes and tap for 1/8" pipe-90 degree runner path for nozzle bodies - set them to spray at the valve.
c. run return line to fuel tank
d. remove the electric fuel pump
e. put turn - outs on the exhaust system
f. if you have a fuel cell, call the maker to determine if the "balast" sponges are alcohol compatible, if they are not, have the maker recommend what to do.
5. You should also buy a 6 oz. Bottle of concentrated "fuel fragrance"; add to a 55 gallon drum of fuel, it gives burnt fuel a more pleasant cherry or grape smell.

2. To a Flying Toilet, 4 - Shooter, or Terminator manifold fuel injector
from a carburetor.
a. No special manifold is required; if you're running a large four barrel {750, 850, or Dominator} now, our stuff bolts right on {see "4.b." above for slight alteration}.
b. Higher fuel pressure and cooler operation makes the engine much less subject to air pressure and humidity changes.
c. Typical gains are .25-seconds e.t. improvement and .05-seconds quicker in the first 60 feet.
d. Many fewer tuning changes are required throughout the weekend.
e. The car becomes a much more consistent performer.

Although it is not required, we recommend you install a surge tank in front of the engine on a door car. If gas will gravity feed to the point where the alcohol fuel pump will be mounted, this installation is not required.
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PS: This thread was started for a crank trigger bracket, why don't we move it over to it's own "F.I." thread, eh?