T-19/D20/CJ7 No TC Drop?

[Mudrat]

Thanks, I have been working on it for a while.

Randy, stopped by your site - NICE WORK! I know the feeling on long term projects - my 85 was found to be pretty much a basket case too. Someday it'll live again. Frame, body, engine are done - now I've just got to get them all together again

Mudrat

[Rocky]

Hey- wazzup w/ this forum... I post a legitimate question and so far, the only approach at an answer is from another newbie (thanks Randy).
I'm happy to see both the forum admin and a moderator show up... until I realize that rather than answers to the topic, you both post thread hijacks! What's policy here, guys?

[pyagid]

Randy has Experience with it and is a Newbie.....But at Bulltear we do not disregard what newbies have to say or post b/c they are new to the board unlike some other boards.

I installed a T-18 in my cj but all I did was cut the existing skid plate to all it to fit properly so it is not fully protected. So i did not feel a need as to what not to do. My SKid plate is in the stock location but the front of the transmission hangs out about 1" or so down. I am always very concerned with it while wheeling and avoid some obstacles i would normally attemp b/c of it. My T-18 is also out of a FSJ with a 6cyl so it is positions slightly different than normal b/c there is a 1" adapter between the bellhousing and trans. It does not have the long Input shaft but it is not the normal short one either I plan on making something similiar to Randys soon.

As far as the Hijacking it tends to happen occasionally around here but it is usually all in good fun.

Paul

[jeepsr4ever]

You can run the adaptor and the skidplate without dropping it but what kind of lift are we talking about, sure you can run 10" lift without dropping the skidplate but you will need special driveshafts, I guess we have to probe further in

[Mudrat]

I'm putting a mid ratio T-19 into a CJ7 w/a D20 (AA adapter), and would like to keep the skidplate at the stock height for better ground clearance..
The stock setup for a T-18 in a CJ drops the TC 7/8" and uses a 1/4" spacer between the TC adapter and the mount.
Anybody put a T-18 or T-19 into a CJ w/o dropping the skid? If so, what's it take to get good clearance and angles?

Hey- wazzup w/ this forum... I post a legitimate question and so far, the only approach at an answer is from another newbie (thanks Randy).
I'm happy to see both the forum admin and a moderator show up... until I realize that rather than answers to the topic, you both post thread hijacks! What's policy here, guys?

Rocky, If I had an answer I would have given one. Sorry, but I don't know.
MC didn't either, or at least he's thinking and maybe researching for you.

And I thought you've done a great job on your ride and your site. Thought the complement would be good.
Mudrat

[Rocky]

Thanks all for the replies.

pyagid:
Do you know whether your front driveline angles changed any due to the trans swap? Did you have to compensate in any way?
(Also, I'm sure you probably know that if you want to ditch the spacer and shorten your driveline, you can use a F**D T18 input shaft and a CJ T-150/T-176 bellhousing w/ either a turned down F**D pilot bushing or one from AA or Novak.)

MC:
I have 3" spring lift, 1/2" body lift. Driveline = 304, T-19, D20, D30, AMC20. It looks like I'll probably have to use a CV on the rear. The AMC factory TSM has a weird formula for front driveline angles... (maybe a misprint.. wouldn't be the first I've found) .. they spec the front pinion angle to one degree more than DRIVESHAFT angle, and make no mention of the angle of the trans/TC. This would be perfect for a setup w/ a CV on the TC end, but doesn't make a lot of sense for the stock CJ front setup w/ single cardan U joints on both ends. I don't want to have to rotate the pumpkin to get driveline angles to work (and shims would just throw the caster angle off). I'm pretty sure that the longer driveline will make up for any increase in U joint angles on the front that the lift might have caused, but I'd like to get input from anybody with experience on how critical the relationship between trans/TC angle and front pinion angle is.
I know that none of this would be of concern to a dedicated rock crawler or trailer queen, but I'm building this as a DD. It will see a lot of highway miles, some of them in snow, so I'd like to get it right from the start.
(Thanks for taking the trouble just to read this all.)

Mudrat:
Thanks for the compliment, but... uh.... That was Randy's rig and site that you were looking at. ... And I agree... I think he did a nice job!

[pyagid]

Thanks all for the replies.

pyagid:
Do you know whether your front driveline angles changed any due to the trans swap? Did you have to compensate in any way?
(Also, I'm sure you probably know that if you want to ditch the spacer and shorten your driveline, you can use a F**D T18 input shaft and a CJ T-150/T-176 bellhousing w/ either a turned down F**D pilot bushing or one from AA or Novak.)

I did not have to do anything with the drive angles. But i only have a add a leaf and have not had any problem with eating ujoints or vibrations. I originally had a t-5/dana300 and ended up using the stock front driveshaft but ordered a custom length on for the rear from tom woods. I am going SOA in the next couple of weeks with Waggy springs so i am sure i am going to have to do somehting then. AS far as the length if this was in a 5 i would be more conserned but since it is in a 7 it does not really matter. I had a few long input t-18 out of FSJ's that I was going to swap the ford input shaft onto. But then i came across this one in a 6cyl Truck and it works with out haveing to take anything apart or getting any adapters


And i don't think you need to be to conserned with the front pinion angle. From my experiance driving DD jeeps with about the same lift as yours through snow I never really noticed a problems. I always see problems with the rear more probably b/c that is used 100% of the time. And with the spec you read for 1 degree more. I have read that a few different places for different applications. We ran in to the same thing building a friends car. Most places so to do that so when torque is applied it ends up at the same angle. that is the only explanation i could ever find for it

[Rocky]

Thanks, pyagid.
I agree w/ the 1 deg being for axle wrap... makes sense to me too... But then that'd be for a CV setup, where the non-CV end is essentially in line w/ the pinion. ..Doesn't make sense for the single cardsn setup.
Since AMC used both styles in the front, it would seem that the TSM ought to give two different specs! Like I said, it wouldn't be the first error I've caught in an AMC TSM!!
Anybody seen different specs for CV vs single cardan front drivelines on a CJ?
I'm glad to hear that the front angles don't seem to be so critical. Hopefully, I'll be fine w/ it.

[RandyJ]

Well, sorry for no introduction and I will be a noob for a whie since I do not post much.

I have been fabricating and building 4x4 rigs since the seventies when I built a 56 CJ with a 304, power steering, updated axles yada yada.....

I just offered up one possible solution for the original question, granted it wasn't a full belly-up, but it is the transmission (T-19) and simular transfer case (Scout Dana 300) that was in question.

[jeepsr4ever]

Randy, did you have to do any frame mods for the 304 in the early frame?