Steering Problems

[GetrDone]

Rojo540,

What kind of a suspension lift did you get & how big? I had the exact same problem zig-zaggin all over the place. I just completed a 74 CJ5 resto. I replaced all steering and suspension components except for leafs. Thought they were still good. I upgraded tires from 30x9.5 to 33x12.5 and wow, was I wrong. The leafs were shot and my wheel bearings were worn. I replaced my wheel bearings and old 3" leafs w/ SkyJacker's 4" lift kit and and that got rid of 90% of the problem. I also replaced the stock steering wheel w/ a 14" dia. Grant. The smaller steering wheel does have a small impact on steering, not much though. Check your body spacers. If one side is worn, it'll cause you to lean to one side, affecting your steering when you break. By the way, I'm curious if you have front and rear sway bars. I don't and my CJ still feels a little sloppy. I'm bolting on a set in a couple of weeks. I'll let you know if it helps eliminate the extra play.

[Goose]

Two Things here.. one from a similar post we had a while back.. Chaeck the air pressure in your new bigger tires..If you are much over 30 psi it's gonna act way squirrely..That solved the last guys trouble seems he was running 45 or more psi..

Second.. GETRDONE where did you find sway bars for your CJ? I need a set and cant find them complete anywhere..

[bulletproofcj7]

Hi all, im new to the forum. lots of great info!

Something that gets over looked alot is the front axle u-joints. Even if the hubs are disengaged the u-joints still pivot when you turn the steering wheel, if they are frozen or not lubed properly they will stick, your steering wheel will have a difficult time returning to center as you drive down the road and you'll over compensate while steering causing the jeep to wonder back and forth down the road.
check that the shackle mounts to the frame are tight, the stock mounts also tend to flex alot with the bigger tires.

To get the main eye bushings out is a real pain! the best way i found to remove them is to drill and cut or melt the rubber with a propane or acetaline torch (messy and smelly) and pull out the center sleeve that the bolt fits through, then cut the outer sleeve from the inside out with a sawsall or hacksaw (carefull not to cut the spring) collapse the outer sleeve inside the spring and pull it out.

-Jason

[Mudrat]

Hi Steve - welcome to the board. Good thought on the u-joints, but that would create other problems and lead to joint failure as well.

Besides, we haven't heard from RoJo since he posted

Drop into the General Chat thread and tell us about you and your rig.
OH! and don't forget to vote

Mudrat

[shawn]

Well said on the u-joints! I've said the same thing many times on the web, it happened to me.

But, it would be nice to know what kind of vehicle this fella is talking about. On my CJ with 4" springs, I have no sway bars and no track bars, and I can drive 80 mph with 35's and have absolutely now steering issues, drives great down the road (if only I could stop breaking things on the trail). I used Scout axles, so when I raised my pinion angle my caster went to poop. I took the "C's" off and welded them back on at about 78 positive caster. Caster is huge on lifted vehicles. Get the max caster and the minumun toe in.

If this is a vehicle with a coil set up, like a 5 link on TJ's, trckbars are a big issue. Make sure it's good, and set up correclty, may have to get an adjustable one. ANd with that setup, a drop pitman arm isn't the answer.