I would think that power bleeding would not require you to remove the calipers. But, If I have to manually bleed the brakes that is something I will keep in mind. I think my bleed ports are mounted rather low.
I would think that power bleeding would not require you to remove the calipers. But, If I have to manually bleed the brakes that is something I will keep in mind. I think my bleed ports are mounted rather low.
1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....
The hydroboost system will not overcome the problem you are having. I am using a hydroboost system and also had to overcome the problem you are having.Originally Posted by juggernaught
NPD was right. You may have to remove the calipers to get out all the air. It is a air problem that you are having.
Larry The Old Rugged Crosser
in a Old Rugged Cross'en 72 CJ-5
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You are invited to view my rebuild of The Old Rugged Crosser --CJ-5 at:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/rebuilding-old-rugged-crosser-cj5-1180801/
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"He that is kind is free, though he is a slave; he that is evil is a slave, though he be a king." - St. Augustine
1. are you running bigger tires? If so how bigOriginally Posted by juggernaught
2. do you have a vacuum booster? If so have you tested it? The buggers tend to leak after a while.
Try the bleeding option first - cheapest of the lot obviously, but didn't overcome my stopping issue (35's). I had pedal pressure, just not enough grip to slow me as quick as I liked.
Disk rear's helped a lot after that. SSBC and TSM both have good $y$tem$ (and I have a set of TSMs for a stock D-20 rear up for grabs swapped in a D-44, with disks )
You don't want a longer throw on the pedal, you want a larger diameter piston - creates more PSI in the hose. If your not ready for Hydroboost, check into a corvett MC with a 1-1/8" bore, or a dual diaphragm vac booster. BUT, you need to be sure it's not trapped air first.
" “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
"'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
-Ronald Reagan
VOTE
Thanks.............thats what I needed. Any idea what years of the corvette m/c will work? No vacuum booster so thats out.
Is it really necessary to hold the pin open on the proportioning valve either while hand bleeding OR power bleeding? The books say yes and the mechanics say no. Personally, I have never bothered with the pro/valve while bleeding my other vehicles.
Somewhere in the future rear disc brakes would be nice.
1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....
No power brakes? Maybe that's the first upgrade you should think about. My 77 CJ was a factory disc/drum with power brakes. I'm still running the factory master cylinder with Wagoneer front calipers (dana 44), rear disc, and 37" tires. It stops like it did with the factory 29" tires.
Bob
tufcj
1969 AMX
1967 Rambler Rogue
If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford
Yes it is important to hold open the pin on the proportioning valve. Here is another tip.
Disconnect the two brake lines that go into the master cylinder and fashion two more lines that will screw into the M/C and turn them up and into the two M/C reservoirs then pump the brakes slowly and do not go all the way down on the pedal. keep stroking like this until no more bubbles come. Then connect the original lines. You should see a lot of difference.
Larry The Old Rugged Crosser
in a Old Rugged Cross'en 72 CJ-5
------------------------------------------
You are invited to view my rebuild of The Old Rugged Crosser --CJ-5 at:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/rebuilding-old-rugged-crosser-cj5-1180801/
------------------------------------------
"He that is kind is free, though he is a slave; he that is evil is a slave, though he be a king." - St. Augustine
Tufcj...........I just don't have a vacuum booster (nothing between the m/c and the fire wall).
1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....
ORC.......If I have someone power bleed my system, do they still need to open the proportioning valve? So far you are the only person telling me (besides the book) that it is mandatory to open the p-valve while bleeding.
I have made an appt. to have them power bled on Thur. morning along with checking the rear drums. I did not ask this guy about the p-valve.
This is one of those issues that has plagued me for a couple years. I would like to put it to rest. I somehow doubt that I am the only one with this issue. But I am very thankful for all the solid advice.
1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....
The vacuum booster (the canister between the firewall and M/C) is what makes "power brakes". the vacuum booster assists you in applying the brakes, without it, it's entirely pedal pressure with your leg.
I agree that the rear drums being out of adjustment could cause a low pedal that will pump up.
Have you checked that the correct lines are connected to the right place on the M/C? Generally in a disc/drum setup, the larger reservoir is the front brakes.
Bob
tufcj
1969 AMX
1967 Rambler Rogue
If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford
Are you ruling this out? I wouldn't if I were you.Originally Posted by Old Rugged Crosser
Larry The Old Rugged Crosser
in a Old Rugged Cross'en 72 CJ-5
------------------------------------------
You are invited to view my rebuild of The Old Rugged Crosser --CJ-5 at:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/rebuilding-old-rugged-crosser-cj5-1180801/
------------------------------------------
"He that is kind is free, though he is a slave; he that is evil is a slave, though he be a king." - St. Augustine